CG Solid State Relay SSR-25DD DC to DC Input 3-32VDC To Output 5-240VDC 25A Single Phase Plastic Cover

Im using one of these 40 amp SSRs to PWM a transmission cooler fan up under my jeep. Been installed for about a year now and so far no issues. If you use it to control a motor you have to run a fly back diode to keep from ruining the SSR. Thats what the 3 black rectangles with red a black wires running to them are. Gonna buy another one of these to pwm a windshield washer pump for water injection pre turbo (cheap turbo, dont care about the compressor wheel)

I have one of this brand solid state relays running my pickups electric fan at 12v with 250 hz pwm. Works great for this purpose and you can even get heat sinks for them. It's been on the truck over a year now and ~ 9000 miles, mostly in the heat.

100 amp SSR: I measured an internal resistance of 0.25 ohm with a 5 amp load current. For small currents, the resistance is approximately linear. If I tried to run 10 amps through it, it would dissipate 25 watts and drop 2.5 volts (if the resistance stays linear). A good heat sink is required. If I tried to use it with a 50 amp load current, it would either melt or burn up trying to dissipate over 600 watts. This SSR is only useable at 10% of its load rating. Observe the polarity markings. Current must flow from + to - within the relay. Warning: It's a short circuit if wired backwards. The device will not operate properly with an AC load; it acts like a diode. I've tested a dozen of the 25A relays, and they all have the same internal resistance characteristic as this 100A unit.

I have been needing these for a long time and didn't even know it. Mechanical relays fail pretty quick in some applications and have other issues. This works perfectly with a control voltage of greater than 3 volts and is dead silent. No moving parts. The back is an awesome heat sink. Easy to mount and hook up. Love these things just ordered more.

I used the SSR to drive 2 LED backup lights. The SSR is installed under the front seat. I clamped a magnet on the shift rod and a magnetic read switch provides the SSR's input current.

I've killed a couple accidentally because the output is one direction so if you feed in from the wrong direction for too long you kill it. Either toss in a slip of paper or label it better then these would be 5 star all day every day. And they get HOT so scrounge up some old computer heatsinks and JB Weld them on with a thin layer so you get heat transfer.

I needed to control a solar-powered well pump with a float switch. Could not find a float switch which would handle 5 amps at 140 volts DC. The controller that the pump manufacturer sells costs several hundred dollars. With this SSR, I just needed a small float switch and a tiny 5v solar panel to provide a few milliamps for control power. I bolted the SSR to the back of a metal enclosure using the supplied heat sink grease. So the enclosure serves as the heat sink. It doesn't get warm. Instructions are sparse, so I don't know if the control power has to be isolated from the load. Could have built a voltage divider with resistors to get control voltage from the main panels, but using the tiny panel ensures that the two sides of the SSR are isolated. Very easy to hook up. It's been in service for about a week. I'll update if anything changes.

I purchased the ZGT-40 DD solid state relay and this feedback is based upon that SSR alone. I do not know if other units with different amperage need to be wired differently. First, absolutely disgraceful documentation and video supplied by the seller who obviously doesn't give a (you know what) based upon the number of comments citing total confusion as to how to wire this product correctly. Sellers have a responsibility to provide ACCURATE documentation for EACH product they sell and this seller fails completely. I recommend you look elsewhere for a seller that knows the product they are selling and provides accurate documentation. This seller will never get another penny from me. 1. Note that the advertised amperage is the MAX amperage, not the rated amperage. You will only see that nuance if you read the detailed description of the product. The seller does not provide the rated amperage anywhere in the product description and it is likely significantly less than the maximum current which is why so many buyers complain about burned up relays. 2. The video provided by the seller demonstrating how to wire the device is WRONG!!! It shows a low side SSR with the load on the negative side. 3. The wiring graphic provided by the seller demonstrating how to wire the device is WRONG!!! It states "Please connect the load on the positive side" but includes a diagram showing it wired on the negative side!!! It doesn't get much more irresponsible than that, folks. The ZGT-40 DD is a "HIGH SIDE" SSR and needs to be wired with the relay on the POSITIVE lead as shown in the graphic I have uploaded. That's it. Why the seller couldn't provide this simple graphic can only be due to LAZINESS! Note that the relay gets hot during operation and heat sinks are not an option even for low current. To give you an idea, after one minute of putting 8 amps through this "40 amp" relay it is hot enough that I can't leave my fingers on it for more than 10 seconds. My advice is to look elsewhere if you need a quality relay. These $10 relays are worth as much as they cost...$10.

No funciona como un relavador normal energizado o no este se mantiene activado

This is an excellent relay, works perfectly and little noise (40db or so) when turning on

Great contactless and silent relay, this will last forever if its well configured and silicone paste applied for heath transfer

Got 2 of these, One just shorted the output all the time so I always had 120VAC on the output (even with the control wires disconnected) the other 1/2 worked in that it only put out 60VAC when no input signal was given, then called up to 120V when a signal was sent

Thank you