EART Headless Electric Guitar fix Bridge for 6 String Travel Guitar Small But Full-scale LEAF Guitar Ultra-Light For Travel and Performance Right Solid-Body Guitar, Purple

Got one of these to try out headless style guitars on a budget, and I have to say, this thing is NICE. I absolutely Love the look of the guitar, there's some really beautiful wood grain on this. It feels great in the hands, the neck is smooth, the fretwork is easily the best out of any guitar I've ever owned. Came in set up good enough for me, all I had to do was tune it and go. The little magnetic key tool for tuning is different then what I'm used to, but works good and is easy to use. All I've done is change out the strap buttons for some locking ones just out of habit. I was originally planning on changing out the pickups as well, mostly because I'm not a fan of chrome, but I was surprised they actually sound good, so I'm keeping them. My only gripe is the pots aren't that smooth to turn, they DON'T have that awful electrical scratching sound bad pots have, they just don't feel as smooth to fiddle around with as my Ibanez or Epiphone that are in the same price bracket. maybe I'm just being picky now who knows? All that being said, I'm VERY impressed with this guitar, and I'd strongly recommend this if you're looking for a headless guitar, and don't wanna spend the 2-3k on a Strandberg. Hell, my only complaint is the pots are kinda meh, the rest of the guitar is stellar for this price. I'll be keeping an eye out for more EART guitars in the future for sure. Now to find a case...

This is now my second Eart headless. I purchased the fixed and trem models. First of all, quality was on point. Was able to dial in the same low action. Sapele back is gorgeous. One piece. Crazy. Lighter than the ash body on the other version. I'm not a fan of this bridge, but it works. I was able to get it setup and intonated. Having the tuning tool on board is a nice change from the tremolo version. Pickups in this are much nicer! Really sweet humbuckers. So... Both are great. The tremolo on the w2 is very usable, not great. Setup is better. Pickups on this are much better. Bridge is very meh. It works. This has the onboard tuning tool, which means you need to remember fewer things when going to the jam session. So, it's a wash. If you'll never use the trem and want a mahogany like body, get the W1. If you really want the trem/ash, get the W2 and consider changing out pickups. Neck and fretwork is fantastic, and everything else is on point. See my review on the W2 page but in short, I was able to get to 1.2 mm action at the 12th fret. Amazing value. With a good setup, this guitar plays like butter.

Update 2022: I am coming back to this review to update it after having spent significant time this year with the guitar EART is attempting to offer a cheaper alternative of. The W1 was my goto guitar ever since I bought it. I did replace the pickups with EMG HZ passives shortly after I wrote the below review. It was my daily guitar from November 2020 to July 2022. It's comfortable, easy to play, and holds tune better than most of my more expensive guitars. If you're on a budget and want a great headless guitar, get this one. That being said, in July of this year I pulled the trigger on a strandberg Bolden. Here are the key differences: 1. The W1s bridge is more complex that the Boden's and harder to lock a tune into. I've changed strings on the Boden three times since I bought it and its just a breeze. Changing strings on the W1 is much more difficult. 2. The Endur neck on the strandberg is the best feeling neck I've ever played. It's contoured to ensure your thumb is in a place at any spot on the neck where your fingers don't have to work too hard to hit any string in a 6 fret radius. While the W1s neck is thin and fast (its basically a Wizard ibanez neck) it can still grow uncomfortable after extended play. The strandberg doesn't have that problem. 3. The strandberg is much, much lighter with nearly the same dimensions of the W1. I thought the W1 was light but the Boden is significantly lighter. 4. The finish and wood quality are much better on the Boden. Duh, its a 2k guitar. It better be. 5. Oddly enough, the fretwork, as uneven as the ends are, is MUCH MUCH better on the W1. My Boden came to me with fret sprout and sharp ends. Were I not familiar with dressing and shaping frets I would have had to go to a tech to fix it on a $2000 guitar. Absolutely inexcusable for a boutique guitar brand to have such horrendous fret work that a company offering cheaper Chinese guitars is doing better. 6. The Boden sounds better out of box. It uses Fishman pickups so this is to be expected. You can aftermarket thr W1 to sound just as good but it'll cost quite a bit. All in all, while having the Boden has relagated the W1 to practice, secondary guitar, I still highly highly recommend the W1 if your budget doesn't include boutique Swedish guitars in its future. 2020 Review: TL;DR: Great headless axe that has a high level of quality for the price you pay. If you want a headless guitar but don't want to spend $1200 to $3000 for a Kiesel or Strandberg, you can't really get a better alternative than this unless you make it yourself. Some quick background: I've been playing and buying guitars for the past 24 years. I've played in bands and as a solo artist. I have even built a few guitars in the past few years. Let's get this out of the way: yes, the body style is nearly 100% identical to the Strandberg Boden line of headless guitars. You're getting a Chinese-made knockoff of a Strandberg. But even by knockoff standards, this is high quality work. They're definitely aiming to compete with boutique rock/metal guitar makers. And they're mostly successful with the W1 model. The guitar arrived three days after I bought it and was packed well. No damage to the outer or inner boxes. Lots of tape so bring a cutting tool. In the box besides the guitar: you're provided two hex keys and a steel lever for the wheel-based truss rod adjuster (just above the neck pickup). The hex keys are for the locking nut at the top of the neck and the smaller "octave" adjuster nuts that control the height and back/forward position of the individual bridge saddles. The quality of the guitar's materials, while certainly not boutique level, is identical to name-brand Indonesian and Korean made mass produced guitars. Not North American factory standard, but not incredibly far off, either. The neck is a maple five piece with two African Rosewood skunk stripes, and it's lightly matte-finished, so if you like a slick neck or a completely naked neck, look elsewhere. The body is African Rosewood with an open pore matte finish and from what I can tell, it's a two piece. On the top of the body is a gnarled and dyed maple veneer that has been shaven down very thin. So thin in fact that my veneer has what appears to be knots and pock marks that, due to the style of finish, were not filled in and are very obvious when you run your fingers over them. You can feel the grain on every bit of wood save the neck's maple pieces on this guitar. Aesthetically I like it, but if you're wanting a smooth feeling guitar, or at least a guitar with some shine, you'll be disappointed. Let's talk hardware. I'll get the pickups out of the way: they are muddy, inarticulate, and provide a very thin, cold sound. They are very lacking in the bass and mids area. When over-driven, it's a total mud show. They lose a LOT of clarity. Of course this is to be expected thanks to the price you're paying. I have spent more on a set of pickups than this entire guitar costs. So if you're looking to do anything but cleans, I'd go ahead and plan to replace the pickups if I were you. I'll be doing that in a few weeks. On another note, the pickups were set very, very low into the body from the factory. I had to raise them quite a bit to get a decent, balanced volume. Next up is the bridge, a point of contention from other reviewers. From my own experience, I had zero trouble figuring it all out. There's a video on youtube but I didn't bother with that. The bridge on the W1 is fixed, and the strings are fed to it ball-to-end, starting at the locking nut and ending with the cut off end of the string being fed through a hole in the small metal wheel behind the string's saddle that tightens and holds the string. You use a magnetic winding handle (that mounts to the side of the bridge) that fits inside the thumbscrew at the back of the bridge to turn the wheel and bring the string to tension. Not too difficult once you look everything over. I had the stock strings off and changed in about ten minutes. Some string change advice: feed all the strings through the locking nut, lock the nut down to hold them in place, and then pull each string individually taught over the bridge in line with their corresponding saddle. Cut the string at the very back of the bridge. This will leave just enough string to pull to tension and prevent over-winding at the tuning wheel in the bridge. Out of the box, with my preferred thicker gauge strings, the bridge only needed slight intonation adjustment and needed only a couple of saddles lowered for my preferred string height. I've had it for three weeks now and it's held C standard since the day I got it. I'd say that's pretty decent tune holding for a guitar that costs less than most bottom shelf models from the big manufacturers. The pots are standard fare. They turn smooth and appear to be wired well (no crackling or inconsistent volume). There is a bit more than usual interference, and from what I can tell the wiring cavity is not shielded. I'll be fixing that when I put in new pickups. The selector switch is a three-way Telecaster style switch and I have to say it's pretty top quality. It has a smooth motion and a satisfying click that isn't picked up by the pickups (looking at you compact 3-way toggle switches). The knobs are... well they're cheap. Replace them if you want. They don't bother me. How about that neck? Well, out of the box I had no issues. I read some reviewers had to get rid of back-bow using the truss rod but I didn't have any. It was nice and flat. The fretboard IS finished which is... a choice for sure. This is the first fretboard I've ever had that's finished so the verdict is still out. The fret work though? Insane for this price. They are highly polished medium-jumbos with rounded edges that are filed back to just a few millimeters away from the edge of the fretboard. They appear to have a high polish to them. The neck is thin and very fast to play and it has a palm-stop at the top of the neck under the locking nut so you have a natural place to call "home" for your hand if you're finishing a run or slide. The only complaint i have about the neck is the frets aren't installed evenly. Some are longer on the ends than others and make a pretty icky sight when you stare down the neck to check relief. The fret ends are very uneven. There's a spot near my second fret where the top string can slide right off the fretboard on a bend. Thankfully I don't bend much that low on the fretboard. The neck pocket is angled and rounded so it's super comfy when you're at the higher frets. The top horn on the body is slightly stretched taller than most top horns and rests against your chest when you're playing between your legs. Love it! I've been playing this guitar exclusively over the past three weeks, getting used to it, making sure it's set how I want it. It's so lightweight that I can play it for extended periods of time without fatigue. Due to its Boden-copy body shape, I can play it in anyway I want: right leg, left leg, between legs (classical style) and it's always comfortable. I can easily reach any fret I need to in any playing position. The body has a belly cut and a curved forearm rest, and is about the thickness of an Ibanez RG (1 and 2/3"). All in all I feel this was a great purchase. Sure I'm going to have to replace the pickups but I usually do that with any guitar I buy anyway. The W1 looks great and plays great. Throw in better electronics and this is easily a five star guitar, especially considering the price!

NECK: Quality is well above purchase price. Found some small rough spots from excess glue where the fretboard meets the neck that have rubbed smooth since getting the guitar. The compound neck profile feels great and is a subtle shift in thickness. FRETS: Quality is well above purchase price. Nothing sticking out where it shouldn't. Frets ends aren't rounded very evenly, which only really matters if you're looking at it up close. FINISH/TOP: Quality is expected for the price. No noticeable problems with the finish except for the bits of glue mentioned earlier. The top is burled wood, so there are small divots from the burls that don't really show up in online images. These divots also can extend to the very edges of the top, and while the edges are sanded, you can still feel the roughness of the divots when running your hands around the edges of the guitar. PICKUPS: Pickups are expected for the price. The pickups are darker/woofier than personally preferred. Not as much high-end, less output than desired. This can somewhat be worked around by messing with EQ/Gain. I plan on eventually putting some Alumitones in there because I want more highs and output as personal preference. There is no shielding from electrical interference in the body cavity. NUT/HEADPIECE: Quality is expected at this price. Zero-fret makes the nut build quality mostly irrelevant. The headpiece design is simple and straight-forward. Space allotted for the headpiece limits replacement options. BRIDGE: Quality is at or below what's expected at this price. I'm convinced whomever designed this bridge doesn't play very much guitar. Tuning is VERY sensitive; I have to grip the tuner firmly and only THINK about turning it for precision tuning. I often end up tuning sharp and have to start again from below. Tuner crank is a cool idea but I fully expect to lose this part eventually. The crank is just an allen wrench though so it won't be the end of the world. Changing saddle height also changes string length, so intonation and action need to be setup together. The baseplate lip by the low E string (where the "patented" text is) extends about 1-2mm above the saddles, so palm muting is very different than what you're used to. You either have to squish your hand meat past the lip or palm mute closer to the pickups. This is theoretically something that one could get used to, but I still ended up removing some of this lip with a file. I was unable to intonate the heavier strings properly; the saddles couldn't extend the string enough. I ended up re-drilling the bridge holes about 5mm (probably only needed 3-4mm) back from where it was originally installed and filling in the old holes with wood glue and sawdust. This fixed the intonation problems I had with the bridge. NOTE: You WILL strip the baseplate screws if you ever have to apply any torque to them, so they WILL need replacing if you plan to reinstall the baseplate. FINAL THOUGHTS: Neck and frets punch way above their price point. Pickups are enough. Bridge takes getting used to and has enough problems for finicky musicians to seriously consider the trouble and cost of replacement. Still a great value with modification budget considered. QC is lacking. Definitely an easy buy for those who don't care too much about needing a perfectly setup guitar. For more particular musicians, the bridge is where you should put the most consideration. I've spent a lot of time researching the limited options on the market, and there just isn't a simple choice for bridge replacement. You either have choose some combination of needing to route out a space for the baseplate so that the action isn't ridiculously high, paying out the nose for single tuners, or risking buying something low quality. Also, pretty much every option for replacing the bridge is strung in the opposite direction than the GW2, with the ball ends anchored in the bridge. This means you'll either have to also replace the headpiece with a string locking piece, or limit string options to double ball-end strings. All this is why I ended up making simple modifications to the bridge that comes with the guitar. Overall I'm still very happy with my purchase, as I like to fuss over things like this. The guitar feels to me, despite the bridge problems, like a much more expensive guitar. The neck/frets are where this guitar's value is at, and bad necks/frets tend to be much harder and more expensive to fix than any of the problems I've mentioned here.

Ok so many like you If you want your first headless guitar and dont have endless cash flow you want to try to get the most out of your money. Now this is NOT the first guitar I ordered. The first had issues. Many many issues. So many that even though I ordered a replacement not wanting to give up I sorta made up my mind to send it back without even opening it. Im very glad I gave the second a shot. The original was either a return someone was untruthful about using it and or modifying it. The nut was cut poorly. The zero fret was pinging due to it being dented by the strings on all unwound strings. And the neck had seemed like someone tried to take a blowtorch to it to darken the maple as a couple spots were black. Now is that what happened? I don't know. But even if that was the case its not amazons or a customer's fault. People can be sneaky. Maybe it was just a bad guitar. But that can happen with $5000 instruments. I've owned them. My replacement came and I was floored. It has a perfectly cut bone nut, no damage to the zero fret, the kahler designed bridge stays in tune very well and is properly set up. And the guitar holds its tune extremely well especially because I dont stretch my strings. I play them in and keep tuning them up and after the guitar resting all night out of a case it was still in tune in the morning. The woods are beautiful. No, you will not wear through the veneer top with your forearm. For a veneer its pretty thick or you wouldn't have so many layers and depth to the knots and holes. I didn't have an issue with either top and its quality or thickness. The roasted padauk body can be really figured or really straight grained. My first almost had a body that reminded me of cheaper had a lot of ribbon striping in the wood. This looks more like what I am used to seeing in padauk. At least in a good piece. The guitar is very resonant. It vibrates and sustains in the hands and rings like a bell. Not snappy but meaty. The neck finish is a beautiful dark caramel color with the red stripes. And the rosewood fretboard on this cant be captured with a cell phone. The guitar is much more beautiful in person. I have been playing and collecting guitars for 35 years. Ive owned the worst and the best. For the price this is a great guitar. And even if you ordered a more well known brand off the internet sometimes you get a dud. But with amazon I had a replacement in two days and I ended up at first being dissapointed to feeling I got more than what i paid for. So if you get a dud, try again just to be sure. Because every company puts out a dud. Im a guitar SNOB. Im very very picky about quality. Too picky some companies would say. And if im saying its worth the hassle to get a good one, just keep trying. Go into any music store with more than one of the exact same guitar on the sales floor. One of them will play and sound better to you. And the quality could vary. This is no different. But as a snob I have no problem having this in my collection and I would play it live.