Loctite Super Glue Plastics Bonding System, Clear, 0.21 fl oz Kit, 1 Pack

EDIT: Two years later and still holding strong. I recently had to pull apart some silicone rubber that I had glued to PVC. The glue bond was extremely strong, the rubber tore without the glue bond ever letting go at all. That's the most you could ask for. It also works well for metal to plastic. I keep this handy for all sorts of plastic repairs and builds. First I'll have to say that the little tube of glue that comes with this turned out to be useless, it just glued itself shut. Not a big problem as there was a large bottle of Locktite superglue handy, so I used that. The activator agent comes in a metal tube with a felt tip, similar to a magic marker or Sharpie. The fluid is clear and hard to see, but it does come out and you can smell it. I treated both surfaces to be glued, even if one wasn't plastic. After the fluid evaporates you use the superglue just like normal. I was happily gluing silicone rubber tubes to a softer silicone rubber base with no problems. Adhesion is fast and strong. Then I read that this is NOT for silicone rubber. Oh well, I don't care, it works great and is easy to use. The bond is often stronger than the silicone itself. What more could you want? There was plenty of the activator for my use, in fact I have some left over.

Really work on polyethylene bonding to each other and metal.

It's hard to find glue that will work on every plastic, and this one doesn't. BUT, it works on most of the plastics I have tried, including ABS. I did have a problem with PVC, but I guess that is why they make PVC cement. For most plastics, this product works for medium duty applications.

Held great

“ activator” tube was dried and nothing could be applied. Since I missed the return date, I opened the other sets I received, and they were also dried. I don’t know if this would have worked on plastics as it claims because the activator portion could not be used. However, the superglue part will stick to your skin! Would not suggest to buy because of quantity. Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and pick up a set.

I bought this to repair a weighted action lever of a synthesizer keyboard key that had broken. It was made of nylon, and nylon does not glue. The repair was a polished steel weight that had been overmolded with nylon and had broken where the two materials came together. I used this bonder by coating both parts with the activator then applying the bonding adhesive , clamped them gently, and left them overnight. Next morning, good as new. These weighted action parts are both expensive and unobtainium at this time, so my musician friend was ecstatic. Time will tell how long this will last in usage so we put this part up in the highest note on the keyboard under the assumption it would get infrequent use giving it the opportunity to last the rest of the life of the instrument. If I owned this myself, I would have left it mid keybed where it will get hammered all the time just to see how durable it really was. Time will tell. But the product did exactly what it claims and I am glad to be adding this product to my "glue" collection.

This Locate Plastic bonder system is basically just superglue, with a "step one" primer of Heptane. Superglue on its own doesn't "stick" well (adhere) to a lot of plastics, even though its strong stuff. The solution is to "prime" the plastic with something that allows the superglue to get a better grip. That is what Loctite plastic bonder system is. Step 1 (the primer), is a "Heptane" liquid/gas "pen". You pop the cap, and then draw (like a felt tipped marker) on the plastic on the bond points. The liquid heptane in the catridge wicks down the felt tip, onto the plastic, and it dissolves "into" the plastic. On a brand new Step 1 cartridge, you can see a slight color adjustment as the liquid Heptane coats the plastic. That disappears nearly immediately (in less than 1 second) as heptane turns gaseous and evaporates nearly instantly at room temperature. Part 2 is just cynoacrylate (superglue). You can get superglue much cheaper just about everywhere when compared to Loctite Plastic's Bonder System. So what you are really paying for here is the Heptane pen. When you use the pen, IMMEDIATELY put the pen top back on when done. The Heptane is VERY volatile and evaporates quickly and easily. You are burning money ever second you have the top off the pen. Your use should be get ready eyeball your pen approaches to the plastic surfaces, be 100% prepared, pull of the pen-top, draw onto each area to be bonded, and then immediately replace the pen-cap again. Then wait for 30-60 seconds (the time it takes for all the Heptane to evaporate), and then use the Step 2 plastics bonder. If you run out of Step 2 (rare, but does happen if you follow my recommendations to Preserve your Primary pens as long as possible), then you can just use a regular bit of SuperGlue in place of the Step 2 tube, because that all that is in there anyway. Some plastics are more dependent on good priming for a good glue seal with high adhesion. Others need it less (more porous plastics are less dependent). Some plastics cannot be bonded with Superglue at all, even with priming. This glue, when it works (which is most of the time if used properly) is the "neatest" solution, with the least amount of over-glue leaking out of the glue joint. And if you are quick with a paper towel (on hand before you start), you can even clean up over-glue leaks. Holding is OK, but varies with the success of the Step 1 primer heptane. That Heptane basically dissolves mirco-holes into the plastic for the Step2 superglue to adhere to. For finer work, or to get pieces into a "locked" in place, I used this glue on plastic. Then, on plastic on which I can put plenty of overglue (e.g. places were the esthetics do not matter), I use instead an Epoxy type (or Urethane type) glue to bond instead. Urethans are usually "runnier" and thinner (good for car bumpers), and Epoxy's are a bit thicker (but often stronger and set faster). I use those after the piece has been secured with the Loctite Step1 + Step2 bonder (e.g. primer + superglue). That makes the plastic indestructably strong (epoxy), or much tougher (Urethane) then the Loctite by itself. But if you need to bond plastic and the esthetics do matter, then this Loctite primer + glue is a good solution.

I first repaired my dehumidifier with this glue when the thin, plastic hose outlet cracked, which led to the bucket filling rather than the hose draining. I used the product as directed and clamped the piece by hand for 60 seconds -- and it held for almost 4 years! The repair failed when I had to flip the dehumidifier on it's back and didn't think to disconnect the hose. I couldn't remember what product I used for the first repair, so I tried plastic specific epoxies from JB Weld and Loctite, and an industrial all purpose epoxy. None of the three would harden, let alone hold, after sitting clamped for 48+ hours. I searched and searched and finally saw this on Amazon and I knew right away it was what I had originally used. I applied it again as directed, and this time clamped it for 24hrs with a good bar clamp. The repair came out very solid, almost like a weld bead, and withstood me pushing on it a bit with my thumb. I think for any situation like this where you're going to have a mostly static load on hard-to-glue plastics, this product is impossible to beat and very easy to use.

I used this glue with primer to attach a Teflon slider on a rubber soled curling shoe. Been using it for two months and so far so good. Very difficult problem to solve as Teflon is very slippery and nonporous.